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Starting Seeds 101 Gardening Tips to get those seeds started right!

by Mark Highland

red and green lettuce sprout bunches

Seed starting…indoors or out? Every year nothing brings every gardener more joy than planting seeds and watching them grow. I am no exception. The prospects of watching an empty bed fill in with different leaf colors and textures makes me drool in anticipation of the spring veggies that will end up on my dinner plate. I can taste the mustard greens and mesculin lettuces, tossed in a basic vinaigrette…mmm mmm!To achieve this garden state, we must first become expert seed sowers.

 
basil packet

We must pay attention to time of year and plant temperature requirements for germination and growth. Early crops such as spinach, peas, onions, radish, lettuce, broccoli, carrots, beets, swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage and brussel sprouts must be started first,  a good month before starting the summer loving crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, melons, okra, cucumbers, corn, squash, and potatoes.To sow indoors or not to sow indoors, that is the question. Crops that always benefit from direct sowing are generally deep rooted crops, like carrots, beets, turnips, and radish.

plants in seed container

Although many other seeds can be planted direct, gardeners can get a jump on the season by starting seeds indoors, about 4 weeks before planting season begins. Starting seeds indoors allows a gardener to plant earlier, which means the plant will bloom and fruit earlier. This is a must for those in cooler climates, where the summer growing season may be a short as 3-4 months. For indoor seed starting, I use a seed starting tray with a humidity dome on top, to keep the moisture level up while the seedlings emerge. Placing a heat mat underneath the seed tray helps speed root growth and development.

sprout

First and foremost, one must use a high-quality potting soil to start your seeds. Many companies make germination blends, but I always use Organic Mechanics Premium Blend to start my veggie seeds. I fill my seed tray with potting soil, making sure to break up any larger pieces and fill each cell equally. I’ve used the same tray for over 8 years now, cleaning it each spring to remove any pathogens and debris. If you don’t like plastic trays, you can use biodegradable pots like DOT Pots or Cow Pots. Using a chop stick, I poke small holes in each cell to make homes for my little seeds. How deep you ask? Plant seeds 3x as deep as they are wide. Peas are about 1/4” in size, so plant them about 3/4“ deep.  Tomatoes are about 1/8” in size, so they get planted 3/8” deep.

Use sifted potting soil to cover the seeds. It is easier for seedlings to push aside tiny particles than to push larger ones out of the way as they reach for the sun. Water the newly planted seed flat with a mist or rain setting on a water wand. Water gently so the seeds don’t get washed out. Use the same setting when watering seeds planted direct in the garden. Keep seed trays in a bright windowsill, out of direct sun if possible until the seedlings get a true leaf. The first two leaves to emerge are actually seed leaves, present inside the seed waiting to reach their potential. After the first couple of true leaves emerge, I use liquid worm casting extract to keep seedlings green and growing. My answer? Sow indoors and outdoors. Sow now, sow later, sow frequently.  Keep your hands dirty,  get out there, and enjoy your garden.

 
 

About the Author

When Mark Highland is not out in the greenhouse or warehouse, Mark spends much of his time traveling to garden centers, trade shows and similar venues to promote, educate and inspire others to the many rewards of organic gardening. He has taught classes at Longwood Gardens, The Tyler Arboretum, Mt. Cuba Center, The Scott Arboretum, Callaway Gardens, and speaks regularly at public events like The Philadelphia Flower Show and to numerous garden clubs. Visit him at http://www.organicmechanicsoil.com